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Preparation:
Roses are very tolerant and hardy plants,
but a few simple requirements need to be considered
before you plant.
SUN:
Select a location that receives
at least
5 or 6 hours of sun per day.
SOIL:
Roses prefer a loose loamy soil.
Select a
location that is well drained,
roses don't
like to stand in water. Avoid
low areas where
water tends to collect or stand.
If your
soil doesn't drain well, the
addition of
sand mixed into the soil will
help. If your
soil is very hard and compacted,
the addition
of peat humus is recommended
to help loosen
the soil to allow water to penetrate,
and
the roots to grow more freely.
COMPETITION WITH OTHER PLANTS:
It is best to locate your roses in an area
away from large trees and shrubs. This will
help eliminate competition for nutrients
and moisture in the soil. If you find it
necessary to plant near other, large plants
or trees, it is important to pay attention
to the additional fertilizer & water
requirements of your roses.
SPACING:
Spacing is an important factor
to consider.
Proper spacing of roses will
allow good air
circulation, this is especially
helpful in
controlling Powdery Mildew and
other diseases.
Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora, & Floribunda
roses, space at least 4 feet apart.
Miniature roses, space 18 - 24
inches apart.
Climbing roses, space a minimum
of 7 feet
apart.
Hedges & small Shrub roses,
space 2 feet
or more apart.
Plant your roses a minimum of
2 feet away
from buildings to allow for proper
growth
and air circulation.
Planting:
BARE ROOT ROSES:
Dig a hole to a depth of 12 - 14 inches &
approximatly 12 - 14 inches across.
Mix the
soil from the hole with a generous
amount
of organic material, peat humus,
peat moss,compost,&
well rotted aged manure work
very well for
this purpose especially if you
have hard
or clay soil.
Cut away any damaged roots or
canes that
may have been broken in shipping.
Trim the
remainder of the canes to approximatly
8
- 10 inches long above the graft
union.
Place a small mound of the mixed
soil in
the hole to support the
rose at the proper height, with
the graft
union at ground level. Spread
the roots over
the mound. Holding the rose in
place, gently
fill the remainder of the hole
with the mixed
soil, firmly pressing the soil
as you fill
the hole to remove any air pockets.
Water the bush well after planting.
Cover
the entire bush with a mound
of mulch to
protect the plant from drying
out while it
is establishing a root system.
Frequent sprinkling
of the mulch covering is recommended
to help
encourage the plant to produce
roots and
sprout. After the danger of frost
has past
and the plants begin to leaf
out, discontinue
sprinkling and remove the mulch
from the
bush to allow for the proper
circulation
of air. DO NOT fertilize the
bush at this
time, wait until the plant has
fully leafed
out before beginning to apply
fertilizer.
CONTAINER GROWN ROSES:
Dig a hole at least 4 - 6 inches
deeper and
twice the diameter of the container
that
they are growing in. Mix the
soil from the
hole with a generous amount of
organic material.
Peat humus, peat moss, compost,
& well
rotted aged manure wor very well
for this
purpose, especially if you have
hard or clay
soil.
Place a small amount of the mixed
soil in
the bottom of the hole to support
the bush
at the proper height.
GENTLY remove the bush from its
container.
Before pulling it out of the
container, it
is recommended to press lightly
around the
container to help loosen the
plant to avoid
damaging the root system.
Set the plant in the hole at
the same depth
as it was growing in the container,
or so
that the graft union is at ground
level.
Holding the rose in place, gently
fill the
remainder of the hole with the
mixed soil,
firmly pressing the soil as you
fill the
hole to remove any air pockets.
Water the
bush well after planting.
Care of Roses:
WATER:
While water is the mothers milk
to roses,
it is important that your soil
is well drained.
Roses do not like to have their
feet in standing
water.
Water bushes well, so that the
soil is moist
to a depth of 6 inches.
Avoid watering roses late in
the evening,
as wet foliage over night can
promote fungal
problems to occur, such as Powdery
Mildew
and Black Spot. A good way to
check if the
roses need watering, is to sample
the soil
at about an inch deep. If there
is no moisture
an inch below the surface, it
is time to
water.
FERTILIZING:
For bare root roses, begin fertilizing
only
after the plants have fully leafed
out.
For container grown roses, begin
fertilizing
at planting time.
A bi-weekly application of a
water soluble
type fertilizer is recommended.
Peter's Professional
20-20-20 general purpose, or
Miracle Grow
for Roses are 2 very good fertilizers
to
use. These fertilizers can be
used without
harm to buds or open blooms &
without
the fear of burning, when used
as directed.
The use of granular types of
fertilizer is
NOT RECOMMENDED, as the results
can be very
unpredictable and the danger
of burning the
root system is greatly increased.
Roses should not be fertilized
beyond September
1st., to allow the bush to harden
off for
the on-coming winter months.
MULCHING:
Mulching, when properly done,
is a very useful
asset to roses.
Mulch will help to retain moisture,
eliminate
weeds, & help to keep the
roots of the
bush cooler during extremely
hot periods
of summer.
A good 2 inch thick layer of
mulch around
the plant is sufficient. Avoid
applying the
mulch too close to the graft
union, leave
about an inch of space between
the graft
union and the mulch. Piling the
mulch directly
against the plant can promote
fungal problems,
the possibility of rotting, &
the invasion
of insects.
Recommended mulches include:
Pine bark nuggets,
shredded pine mulch, shredded
hard wood mulch,
compost, & pine straw.
TRIMMING & SHAPING:
In order for roses to continue
to bloom regularly,
it is necessary to trim away
the bloom stems
after the blooms have shattered.
Clip the
stems anywhere below the second
5 leaflet
leaf. During the process of removing
the
spent blooms, you can determine
the desired
shape and height of the plant,
by choosing
just how much of the stem you
remove. Clipping
a minimum of 4 inches is recommended,
however,
it is not uncommon to remove
10 - 12 inches.
Regularly trimming the roses
in this way
will promote the bush to branch
freely and
continually bloom for you throughout
the
growing season.
Always be sure to use a clean,
sharp pair
of pruning shears to ensure a
clean, smooth
cut & to avoid bruising and
splitting
of the canes.
INSECT PESTS & DISEASES:
NOTICE: ** Read & follow
all recommendations
for use and application rates
as outlined
in the detailed instructions
on the container
of all insecticides & fungicides**
INSECT PESTS:
Aphids, Thrips, Spider Mites,
& Japanese
Beetles are the most common insect
pests
that affect roses. Some remedies
for these
pests are as follows:
APHIDS: Red, black, or green
soft bodied
bugs, found mostly at the tips
of new growth.
These can be controlled by using
a solution
of Insceticidal Soap** or an
application
of Orthene** Insecticide.
THRIPS: Very small soft bodied
insects about
1/16 of an inch or less in length.
Usually
found in the buds and blooms
of the plants.
These can be controlled with
an application
of Orthene**, Isotox** or Bio-Neem**Insecticides.
SPIDER MITES: Small red mites
with a spider
like appearance. The leaves of
the plants
will appear to have tiny spider
webs spun
onto them. These can be controlled
with an
application of Insecticidal Soap**,
Sulfer**,
or a Miticide** type of insecticide.
JAPANESE BEETLES: These are a
metallic brown-green
air borne beetle. The Japanese
Beetle is
best controlled early in the
season
while
it is in the grub form in the
ground. The
Japanese Beetle will take flight
at the beginning
of June and will continue into
August.
Some effective solutions to controlling
these
are:
Treatment of the soil to kill
the grubs -
In April & May an application
of Diazinon**
or Dursban** granules can be
applied to your
entire lawn and watered in to
kill them before
they take flight. If desired,
a natural remedy
is also available called Milky
Spore** and
can be applied to the lawn. Milky
Spore**
only affect the grubs of Japanese
Beetles
and is harmless to plants, animals,
&
humans. Usually, total control
can be acheived
in 1 to 3 years with Milky Spore**,
depending
on your specific situation.
After the beetles have taken
flight, the
use of Sevin**spray or Sevin**
dust applied
to the leaf surfaces of your
roses will help
to kill a few and repel even
more of the
beetles. THE USE OF A JAPANESE
BEETLE TRAP
IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Placement
of the trap
away from your plants is important
to lure
them away and trap them. When
the traps are
placed, it is important to keep
the collection
bags monitored and changed regularly,
as
these will fill up with the trapped
beetles
very fast. Place the traps in
an open area
with full sun and hang them about
2 feet above
the ground for the best results.
Space the
traps about 60 - 75 feet apart.
DO NOT HANG THE TRAPS IN TREES
or near other
plants that you want to protect!
DISEASES:
POWDERY MILDEW: White powdery fungal growth on the buds and leaf surfaces or undersides.
Cool nights, warm days and high humidity are ideal conditions for Powdery Mildew.
Spray applications of Funginex with Triforine or Wettable Sulfer is recommended for control.
BLACK SPOT: Dark black spots on the leaves. The spots tend to be round, varying in a range of sizes.
Leaves tend to yellow or drop completely from the bush. Rainy weather or late day watering where the leaves stay wet for extended periods or over night
tend to create conditions favorable for the Black Spot Fungal Spore.
To control Black Spot, water in the morning so that the foilage can dry quickly before midday. Avoid splashing and spattering water from the ground onto the plant.
Beginning in winter during dormancy, an application of Lime Sulfer Spray is recommended. Clean up all dropped leaves and debris.
In the spring when dormancy breaks, begin spraying with regular fungicide applications.
Funginex with Triforine, Daconil 2787, Banner Maxx or Wettable Sulfer is recommended. It is important to spray all leaf surfaces (tops & undersides) as the fungal spores are on the undersides of the leaves too.
Spray in the morning or when the temperature is cool.
Winter Care:
Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Miniature, Shrub,
& Heirloom:
After a killing frost, prune
the canes back
to about 16 - 18 inches.
8 - 12 inches for miniature roses.
Prune away any dead or unproductive
wood,
and remove the large top portion
of the bush.
Clean the area around the bushes
to remove
any dead or fallen leaves from
the bush.
Remove and dispose of all trimmings
from
the bush. Apply a final application
of fungicide
with a sulfer content to help
prevent the
carry over of fungal spore type
diseases
such as Black Spot & Powdery
Mildew.
Lime Sulfer** spray is recommended.
Spray the
canes thoroughly and drench the
ground around
the bush as well.
Mulch the plants in for the winter
using
straw,or pine needles to cover
the entire
plant. A wire cage placed around
the canes
may be helpful to hold the straw
around the
bush and prevent it from blowing
away with
the winter wind. In severe cold
areas of
the country, it is recommended
that the entire
graft union be covered with 4
- 6 inches
of soil. The covering of straw
and pine needles
should be removed in early spring
after the
danger of frost has past to allow
for proper
air circulation.
CLIMBING ROSES:
With the exception of the following,
all
of the other previously mentioned
recommendations
apply. Climbing Roses do not
get pruned back
quite as short as the other roses
described
above. Therefore, a wire cage
around the
canes will most likely be a necessity
to
hold the straw in place around
the much taller
canes.
Prune away only about 20% of
the length from
the canes and remove any spindly
or weak
canes. Climbing roses are not
pruned back
as short as bush types of roses
because many
varieties of climbers will only
bloom well
on second year wood.
Burlap can also be used to wrap
the canes
to give additional protection
from the cold
and wind. Any loose or extremely
long canes
should be tied or secured also
to prevent
them from whipping in the wind.
Types of Roses:
HYBRID TEA: Upright and tall characteristic. Blooms
are large & well formed on
long stems
suitable for cutting.
GRANDIFLORA: Upright and tall characteristic. Blooms
are usually in clusters with
shorter stems
than Tea roses.
FLORIBUNDA: Lower height characteristic than Tea's &
Grandiflora roses. These have
a smaller bloom
size as compared to Tea roses,
& are
usually in heavy clusters.
CLIMBERS: Climbing roses have an outward, large growth
characteristic. They are useful
to place
on trellises and arbors or to
let ramble
along a fence.
SHRUB: Free blooming plants with differing flower
sizes and forms, broadly varying
in mature
size but with a full bushy &
attractive
habit. Most have very good disease
resistance
& hardiness and are grown
on their own
roots.
SHRUBLET: Shrublets are roses of varying habits which
are never too big to tuck into
restricted
garden spaces. We call them shrublet's
because
the abundant flowers are individually
smaller
with proportionately smaller
foliage. These
bloom very abundantly and have
excellent
disease resistance and high levels
of hardiness.
HEIRLOOM: Old roses or those whose flowers resemble
the fully double old roses. Assorted habits,
most stems are of cutting length & most
are grown on their own roots.
MODERN ANTIQUES: Modern Hybrid roses whose flowers resemble the fully double old roses.
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S&W Greenhouse, Inc.
P.O. Box 30
533 Tyree Springs Road
White House, Tennessee 37188
Phone: (615) 672-0599
Fax: (615) 672-1788
E-mail: info@sw-greenhouse.com
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